Baltimore — Wow!

Last month was my first trip to Baltimore. It was a good time seeing friends and family, but I also wanted to get in a museum day. I always make time for museum visits when I travel, especially museums new to me. I am never disappointed. This trip I got to explore the Baltimore Museum of Art and The Walters Art Museum.

The Walters is a large, treasure trove of different eras, genres of art, history and objects. It continues into two attached historic homes. Exploring the museum is confusing and disorienting — and I loved that! It was like one of those dreams where you are in a strange house going up and down staircases from room to room, never getting to find your way back to where you started. Every room a new surprise. Fortunately, I did find my way back and it was a wonderful journey.

I began the day at the Baltimore Museum of Art — it’s incredible! The story starts with two remarkable sisters I had not heard of before —Claribel and Etta Cone. They began collecting art in Europe in 1898 and over the years acquired over 3,000 works of art which were eventually willed to the Baltimore Museum of Art. The Cone Sisters’ collection is the foundation of a truly world class museum. 

I wandered from one gallery to another and at every turn there was art that stopped me in my tracks. A Gustav Klimt forest scene like I had never seen, I turned around to spot a fantastic Chaim Soutine landscape. And there are plenty of new acquisitions to see as well. For example, the Asian Art section has added a strong painting by Hung Liu. And of course, so many Matisses that I lost count. Another treat was a special exhibit of Louis Fratino’s work juxtaposed with Matisse’s paintings and drawings. 

Just how good is the museum?  Imagine combining everything in San Francisco’s SFMOMA, de Young and Legion of Honor (except for the photography and California art collections). Now, I love my local museums, but all three put together are not even close to what I found at the Baltimore Museum of Art. It’s not a museum to visit if you are in Baltimore, it is a destination. And it is also the only museum where you will be greeted by a Rodin Thinker and then take a seat yourself in the John Waters Restroom!